What New Creative Director Sabato De Sarno’s Debut Tells Us About Gucci Menswear

Overcoats aside, it’s not clear that De Sarno is excited by tailored clothing. Besides a handful of micro-short suits—most looks featured leggy, meaning very tiny, shorts—the collection skewed casual: tank tops, lacy slip dresses, and smart overshirts of the kinds that fill the city’s trendier aperitivo spots. But Gucci has a large men’s tailoring business, so De Sarno will probably cut more suits for his January show, distinguished by their precise proportions rather than embellishment.

…And Sparse Eveningwear

But don’t expect to see any tuxedos or dinner jackets. Michele’s Gucci shows included extensive and elaborate swathes of formalwear, and his baroque black tie looks dominated red carpets. But De Sarno told WWD that for his debut he “didn’t want to show eveningwear. Gucci to me is more daywear.” Gone are the days, clearly, of Pope-like Met Gala robes and Jared Leto prosthetic heads.

You’ll Get To Know “Rosso Ancora”

As many fresh CDs do, De Sarno has selected a new house color. Meet “Rosso Ancora,” a deep maroon that was inescapable all around Milan this week, wrapped around trams, covering newsstands, and even painted on a building above my favorite local restaurant, Rovello 18. According to a press release, the rich hue originates in the staff elevator of The Savoy hotel in London, where house founder Guccio Gucci worked as a porter in the late-1800s. The color was painted through the collection, too, covering leather shorts, monogram chore coats, and handbags. You’ll see it everywhere soon enough, in global advertising campaigns and wherever there’s a Gucci store—the brand’s shopping bags are switching over to glossy maroon.

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